Mykyta Balabanov

Profession
Alpine climber
Nationality
Ukraine
Date of Birth
1989
With Kailas since
2022

About Mykyta Balabanov

Brief Introduction of Mykyta

Born in 1989 in Kuznetsovsk, western Ukraine, Nikita began travelling in the mountains with his parents at the age of 5. After joining his local club, Nikita moved to Kiev, where he began to start climbing more seriously.

Since then, he has climbed numerous routes, winter and summer alike, in the Caucasus, Crimea, Tian-Shan, and the Hibiny mountains (Kola peninsula, northwest Russia).

Now, Nikita is married and works as the head manager of one of the biggest outdoor shops in Ukraine. So when he’s not surrounded by tons of gear at work, he’s surrounded by it in the mountains!

(From: www.pioletsdor.net)

How Mykyta Talks About Himself?

I do not like "rush" and try to make all processes take place calmly, whether it is communication between the participants or overcoming a difficult section on the route. There is enough excitement in the mountains without people! It is worth it to fully enjoy them, being in a beautiful place. After all, impressions are the most valuable things we can get from life. Well, travel is the greatest storehouse of impressions.

I try to make all possible preparations in advance to avoid surprises on the spot. It concerns everything: equipment, route, and condition of the group.

Well, also, I know a lot about the mountain areas, their tops and routes on them. Therefore, those who are in this subject will not be bored. And those who are not in the subject, listening, can quickly join!

Piolet d'Or Winner

Teaming up with Mikhail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko, Mikhail have made the first ascent of Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III (7,555 meters), one of the Himalaya’s most challenging unclimbed features.

To honor this significant achievement, they were awarded the Piolet d'Or Special Jury Award in 2022.

(Pic from Ukrainian Annapurna III team)

Multiple Piolet d'Or Winner (2022, 2016)

  • 2016 Mykyta Balabanov was awarded for summiting North-northwest pillar (Daddy Magnum Force) of Talung (1,700m, ED+ M6 A3, 5-days, alpine style) on the Nepalese-Indian border.
  • 2022 Mykyta Balabanov received Special Jury Award for the Southeast Ridge (Patience) of Annapurna III (7,555m, 5.10a A3 M6, 16-days) in Nepal.
Significant Ascents

2014, Lanshisa Ri 6427m

Lanshisa Ri 6427m (Langtang of the Himalayas) - the first climb of the route of 6A degree of complexity on the Central buttress of the N. Wall in triple climb (with M.Fomin and V. Polezhayko). One of the first Ukrainian routes in the Himalayas, alpine style (without handling, lightweight, in one trip).

2015, Talung 7349m

Talung 7349m along the SSR ridge of 6B category of difficulty the first ascent in alpine style in twos with M.Fomin (Kanchenjunga Himalayas). The ascent was recognized as the best by many international awards in 2015 (including the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious award in the world of mountaineering).

2018, Khan Tengri 7010m

Khan Tengri 7010m along the NW ridge free solo without rope and using ropes up to the top in 24 hours (Tengri-Tag, Tien-Shan).

2019, Fitz Roy 3359m

Fitz Roy 3359m along the route "Californiana" 5B difficulty (in trio with A. Yakunin and V. Rogova, first ascent of Fitz Roy, the highest point of the Chalten Massif, Patagonia, and one of the most beautiful Patagonian peaks).

2021, Annapurna IV (7545 m)

Annapurna IV (7545 m), a new route N-W along the ridge in a threesome with M. Fomin and V. Polezhayko (Himalayas, Nepal).

2021, Annapurna III (7555 m)

Annapurna III (7555 m), a new route on the S-E ridge in the trio with M. Fomin and V. Polezhayko (Himalayas, Nepal). The climb was recognized with many international awards in 2022 (including the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious award in the world of mountaineering).