Mykyta Balabanov

Alpine climber
Date of Birth
With Kailas since

About Mykyta Balabanov

Brief Introduction of Mykyta

Born in 1989 in Kuznetsovsk, western Ukraine, Nikita began travelling in the mountains with his parents at the age of 5. After joining his local club, Nikita moved to Kiev, where he began to start climbing more seriously.

Since then, he has climbed numerous routes, winter and summer alike, in the Caucasus, Crimea, Tian-Shan, and the Hibiny mountains (Kola peninsula, northwest Russia).

Now, Nikita is married and works as the head manager of one of the biggest outdoor shops in Ukraine. So when he’s not surrounded by tons of gear at work, he’s surrounded by it in the mountains!


How Mykyta Talks About Himself?

I do not like "rush" and try to make all processes take place calmly, whether it is communication between the participants or overcoming a difficult section on the route. There is enough excitement in the mountains without people! It is worth it to fully enjoy them, being in a beautiful place. After all, impressions are the most valuable things we can get from life. Well, travel is the greatest storehouse of impressions.

I try to make all possible preparations in advance to avoid surprises on the spot. It concerns everything: equipment, route, and condition of the group.

Well, also, I know a lot about the mountain areas, their tops and routes on them. Therefore, those who are in this subject will not be bored. And those who are not in the subject, listening, can quickly join!

Piolet d'Or Winner

Teaming up with Mikhail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko, Mikhail have made the first ascent of Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III (7,555 meters), one of the Himalaya’s most challenging unclimbed features.

To honor this significant achievement, they were awarded the Piolet d'Or Special Jury Award in 2022.

(Pic from Ukrainian Annapurna III team)

Multiple Piolet d'Or Winner (2022, 2016)

  • 2016 Mykyta Balabanov was awarded for summiting North-northwest pillar (Daddy Magnum Force) of Talung (1,700m, ED+ M6 A3, 5-days, alpine style) on the Nepalese-Indian border.
  • 2022 Mykyta Balabanov received Special Jury Award for the Southeast Ridge (Patience) of Annapurna III (7,555m, 5.10a A3 M6, 16-days) in Nepal.
Significant Ascents